Archive for publications, 2017

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[ecrea] International Journal of Fashion Studies 4.2

Mon Dec 04 21:19:44 GMT 2017





Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of the International Journal of Fashion Studies <http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/intellect/infs/2017/00000004/00000002> is now available.


This special issue explores East Asian fashion as a multifaceted process of cultural translation.


Articles within this issue include (partial list):


<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24847/>

Dilute to taste: Kimonos for the British market at the beginning of the twentieth century <https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24847/>

Authors: Akiko Savas

Page Start: 157


This article investigates the significance of the kimono in British fashion at the beginning of the twentieth century and clarifies who was active in promoting its popularity throughout Britain. It also examines the colour trends that developed for kimonos made for the British market. In the early twentieth century, large numbers of kimonos specially designed for the western market were exported to Britain by Japanese manufacturers, such as Takashimaya, where they were sold in shops and department stores in and around London. This made it increasingly possible for anyone to easily obtain kimonos, in contrast with the nineteenth century when collectors were the primary consumers of kimonos. Thus, in British fashion history the phenomenon of the ‘Japan craze’ was most notable in the 1900s–10s. Not only does archival evidence allow the export of kimonos to be tracked, it also demonstrates how changes to the garment to suit foreign markets came about. According to documented reports, the colours of kimonos needed to be ‘subdued’ for the British market. This change proved to be a highly effective ‘translation’ in design as the kimono moved from Japanese culture to the very different cultural language of British society.


<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24850/>

Socialism and the fashion business: The case of China and Hong Xiang <https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24850/>

Authors: Christine Tsui

Page Start: 225


This article explores how fashion businesses were transformed from capitalist fashion firms to socialist fashion firms after the Communist Party established the People’s Republic of China (PRC) in 1949. By exploring the case of the first Chinese fashion company, Hong Xiang, through business records stored in the Shanghai Municipal Archive Center, I argue that during the Mao era (1950s–1970s) the Chinese government socialized fashion businesses in five key areas. It first took over ownership of private businesses in the name of a ‘merger’, while imposing a particular ideology in which working attitudes and clothing represented people’s political attitudes towards the nation. In clothing design, a set of dichotomies defined what was socialist dress and what was capitalist dress: socialist design was simple, economic and practical; capitalist design was complicated, luxurious and over-decorated. In business management, the government encouraged the Chinese to believe that socialist systems were better than anything under capitalism by manipulating business information and offering different interpretations of bourgeois business strategies. At a micro-level, the socialist country meticulously manipulated particular vocabularies to reflect the change of the system from capitalism to socialism. This article re-examines this rich history to offer new insights into the tensions and translations between capitalism and socialism that occurred in the Chinese fashion business between the 1950s and the 1970s.


Fashioning tradition in contemporary Korean fashion <https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24851/>

Authors: Yunah Lee

Page Start: 241


This article reconsiders the debate of ‘self-orientalization’ in Asian fashion within the context of contemporary Korean fashion and its place in the promotion of the national economy and culture. Case studies of Korean fashion labels such as Tchai Kim and Isae reveal that they have challenged the typical images of hanbok, the traditional Korean dress, and provided styles and brands that resonate with local Korean characteristics as well as global fashion concerns. By reinterpreting traditional shapes and purposes of hanbok, employing traditional dressmaking methods and craft skills, and cleverly presenting and promoting their products and brands, these fashion companies have created a hybrid design and style. This has been built from the development of complex and mutually reinforcing interactions between local and global fashion knowledge and practice. This article argues that these new movements in contemporary Korean fashion provide further understanding of the complex and multifaceted dialectics of Korean fashion, beyond the dichotomy of tradition versus modernity.

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