[ecrea] International Journal of Fashion Studies 4.2

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of the 
International Journal of Fashion Studies 
<http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/intellect/infs/2017/00000004/00000002> 
is now available.


This special issue explores East Asian fashion as a multifaceted process 
of cultural translation.


Articles within this issue include (partial list):


<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24847/>

Dilute to taste: Kimonos for the British market at the beginning of the 
twentieth century 
<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24847/>

Authors: Akiko Savas

Page Start: 157


This article investigates the significance of the kimono in British 
fashion at the beginning of the twentieth century and clarifies who was 
active in promoting its popularity throughout Britain. It also examines 
the colour trends that developed for kimonos made for the British 
market. In the early twentieth century, large numbers of kimonos 
specially designed for the western market were exported to Britain by 
Japanese manufacturers, such as Takashimaya, where they were sold in 
shops and department stores in and around London. This made it 
increasingly possible for anyone to easily obtain kimonos, in contrast 
with the nineteenth century when collectors were the primary consumers 
of kimonos. Thus, in British fashion history the phenomenon of the 
‘Japan craze’ was most notable in the 1900s–10s. Not only does archival 
evidence allow the export of kimonos to be tracked, it also demonstrates 
how changes to the garment to suit foreign markets came about. According 
to documented reports, the colours of kimonos needed to be ‘subdued’ for 
the British market. This change proved to be a highly effective 
‘translation’ in design as the kimono moved from Japanese culture to the 
very different cultural language of British society.


<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24850/>

Socialism and the fashion business: The case of China and Hong Xiang 
<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24850/>

Authors: Christine Tsui

Page Start: 225


This article explores how fashion businesses were transformed from 
capitalist fashion firms to socialist fashion firms after the Communist 
Party established the People’s Republic of China (PRC) in 1949. By 
exploring the case of the first Chinese fashion company, Hong Xiang, 
through business records stored in the Shanghai Municipal Archive 
Center, I argue that during the Mao era (1950s–1970s) the Chinese 
government socialized fashion businesses in five key areas. It first 
took over ownership of private businesses in the name of a ‘merger’, 
while imposing a particular ideology in which working attitudes and 
clothing represented people’s political attitudes towards the nation. In 
clothing design, a set of dichotomies defined what was socialist dress 
and what was capitalist dress: socialist design was simple, economic and 
practical; capitalist design was complicated, luxurious and 
over-decorated. In business management, the government encouraged the 
Chinese to believe that socialist systems were better than anything 
under capitalism by manipulating business information and offering 
different interpretations of bourgeois business strategies. At a 
micro-level, the socialist country meticulously manipulated particular 
vocabularies to reflect the change of the system from capitalism to 
socialism. This article re-examines this rich history to offer new 
insights into the tensions and translations between capitalism and 
socialism that occurred in the Chinese fashion business between the 
1950s and the 1970s.


Fashioning tradition in contemporary Korean fashion 
<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24851/>

Authors: Yunah Lee

Page Start: 241


This article reconsiders the debate of ‘self-orientalization’ in Asian 
fashion within the context of contemporary Korean fashion and its place 
in the promotion of the national economy and culture. Case studies of 
Korean fashion labels such as Tchai Kim and Isae reveal that they have 
challenged the typical images of hanbok, the traditional Korean dress, 
and provided styles and brands that resonate with local Korean 
characteristics as well as global fashion concerns. By reinterpreting 
traditional shapes and purposes of hanbok, employing traditional 
dressmaking methods and craft skills, and cleverly presenting and 
promoting their products and brands, these fashion companies have 
created a hybrid design and style. This has been built from the 
development of complex and mutually reinforcing interactions between 
local and global fashion knowledge and practice. This article argues 
that these new movements in contemporary Korean fashion provide further 
understanding of the complex and multifaceted dialectics of Korean 
fashion, beyond the dichotomy of tradition versus modernity.

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