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[Commlist] Call for Papers: ‘Beau Brummell and New Masculinities’

Tue Aug 29 15:09:22 GMT 2023





CALL FOR PAPERS


Spring International Conference


The Association of Dress Historians in conjunction with University of the Arts London Central Saint Martins


4 & 5 April 2024


‘Beau Brummell and New Masculinities’


View the full call here>>

https://dresshistorians.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/CFP-Beau-Brummell-New-Masculinities.docx.pdf <https://dresshistorians.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/CFP-Beau-Brummell-New-Masculinities.docx.pdf>


George Bryan “Beau” Brummell (1778 - 1840) was a famous figure in his day, for his beauty and for his influential relationship with British nobility. Brummell was discussed, sought-after and critiqued by the most significant writers, politicians, and socialites of his time. He has been the subject of many semi-biographical and fictional retellings of his life. He was both embraced and rejected by his socio-political world.


Obsessively meticulous in his dress, Brummell is widely regarded as the first dandy and was more than just a significant fashion influencer. His ethos is still apparent in tailoring and contemporary menswear over 180 years after his death. It can also be traced in the work of writers as diverse as Barbey d’Aurevilly, Benjamin Disraeli, Alexander Pushkin and W. E. B. Du Bois.


Brummell took the ideals that emerged from La Directoire and British Regency eras and honed them to create a look and a persona that was bold and whose appeal transcended social class, gender and political boundaries. In an age that saw increased consumption of the new commodities produced by enslaved labour and acquired through aggressive colonial expansion, Brummell renounced conspicuous consumption in preference for restraint and understatement. It was a look that influenced the emerging Savile Row tailors who fashioned some of the emblematic commodities of this new consumer culture.


Brummell’s fashioned identity remains mythologised and, since its inception, the new masculinity of the ‘dandy’ has been utilized in the formation of gendered and raced identities that resist established behaviour, looks, influences and ethics. This two-day interdisciplinary conference poses Beau Brummell as a point of discursive departure in considering how contemporary and historic masculinities have been conceptualised and reworked. It invites papers that explore the wider implications of these reworkings, as well as the interactions between sartorial expression and both resistant and hegemonic masculinities.


Papers are invited, but not limited to:

  *

    Beau Brummel and his textual legacies

  *

    Black dandies

  *

    Contemporary men’s fashion and the legacy of dandyism

  *

    Dandyism in the age of revolution

  *

    Dress and celebrity

  *

    Fashion and sartorial expression as cultural, social and/or
    political resistance

  *

    Female dandies

  *

    Queer, fluid and trans masculinities

  *

    Masculinities, fame and heroism

  *

    Masculinities, hegemony and modernity

  *

    Saville Row tailoring


There will be an opportunity for papers to be published in a special issue of the Association of Dress Historians' journal and in an edited book volume.


To submit a proposal, please send: a 200-word abstract, a 100-word biography and an image that can be published in the programme to Melanie Davies:

(m.g.davies /at/ csm.arts.ac.uk) <mailto:(m.g.davies /at/ csm.arts.ac.uk)>


Deadline: 00:00 GMT Thursday 30 November 2023


Convened by Melanie Davies (Central Saint Martins) and Emily Taylor (ADH)


Conference committee including Lorraine Henry-King, Jay McCauley Bowstead and Michael McMillan

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