[ecrea] Fashion, Style & Popular Culture 6.1 published

Intellect is excited to announce that Fashion, Style & Popular Culture 
6.1 is now available! For more information about the issue, click here 
>> https://bit.ly/2PZa6U0

*_Contents_*

_Fashion, style and global culture with sneakers uniting us_

Authors: Joseph H. Hancock
Page Start: 3

_Orientalist reveries: The imaginary creative constructions of the 
Moroccan space and place by the figures of the non-Muslim male traveller 
and female tourist − from travel literature to photography and 
contemporary fashion imagery_

Authors: Itai Doron
Page Start: 7

In this body of research and original photographic work to which it 
responds, I examine the position and connotation of Morocco as a site 
for artistic inspiration in travel literature, photography and fashion 
photography in the context of three main themes relating to its 
imaginary constructions: Orientalism; the western male traveller in 
contradistinction to the female tourist; and the figure of the cultured 
flâneur. These themes became associated with European industrialization 
and imperialism towards the end of the nineteenth century, and the 
research draws links between this particular period of culture and its 
values, and our present day, romantic fascination with Morocco, and the 
revival of such themes and their popular reincarnation in contemporary 
fashion editorials. The article investigates the role that photography 
has played in the development of twenty-first century Orientalism and 
its manifestation in visual fashion storytelling, and the interplay 
between artist-subject-location: how does the western 
traveller/photographer view both himself and others in the process of 
picturing the Maghreb and what are the kinds of relationships and 
tensions that develop between the traveller/photographer and the North 
African sites that he observes? The research focuses on the long 
association between travel and sexual adventure and explores the 
literary and visual narratives involving the figures of the contemporary 
traveller and tourist in the North African space and place, and how 
adventurer and location feed off one another. By examining the 
appropriation of such figures and motifs from art and literature into 
contemporary photography of travel and fashion photography, the article 
aims to consider the visual representation and specific propositions of 
locations such as Tangier, Marrakesh, Assilah and the Moroccan Sahara as 
chaotic, dangerous and alien, and understand the complex, 
post-Orientalist rendition of the North African space and visual culture 
within the context of fashion photography. More specifically this 
article poses the following questions: why does our western culture want 
or need to revisit condescending Orientalist fantasies and an 
imperialist mode of representation? And in what way are the tropes of 
Orientalist representation tied to the fantasies, desires and anxieties 
that the fashion industry and its consumer engage with? The article 
takes Morocco’s strong ties with western cultural figures as its 
starting point, and in times of intense political and social unrest in 
the Arab world – the continuing fascination with and promotion of this 
Muslim country as a sensual tourist destination by fashion editorial and 
ad campaign shoots. The article considers two photography monographs by 
western male travellers/photographers shooting photographic bodies of 
work in a foreign Islamic country: Paul Bowles’ How Could I Send a 
Picture into the Desert (Bowles and Bischoff 1994) and Harry Gruyaert’s 
Morocco (1990), in addition to several case studies from literature 
(Peter Mayne, Elias Canetti); photography (Irving Penn, Daido Moriyama); 
and contemporary fashion editorial work (William Klein, Jack Pierson, 
Azim Haidaryan, Inez Van Lamsweerde/Vinoodh Matadin, Mario Testino, Hans 
Feurer, Steven Meisel and Daniel Riera). It aims to establish links 
between the visual representation of travel and the context of gender, 
fashion, identity and sexuality and the psychological dimension of tourism.

_An analysis of the shoulder pad in female fashion_

Authors: Kevin Almond
Page Start: 31

This study examines the adoption of the shoulder pad in female, western 
fashion. Shoulder pads are essentially a form of wadding inserted into a 
garment that alters the natural shape of the shoulder line. They can 
give the illusion of a much broader shoulder, a square shoulder or a 
rounded, softer shoulder. In bespoke or made-to-measure fashion such as 
tailoring and haute couture, the use of shoulder padding can also align 
the shoulders if one slopes more than the other. The fashion industry 
has utilized shoulder pads to enhance the silhouette of many types of 
clothes and this research aims to trace the history of shoulder padding 
in contemporary fashion, from the early 1930s. It also discusses how 
technology has developed the use of shoulder padding in female fashion. 
Their inclusion in fashionable clothing depends on the fashion taste of 
the day; however, the research also investigates how shoulder pads have 
sometimes been appropriated by women to galvanize an impression of power 
and emancipation.
_
Climate justice isn’t sexy: The double failure of sustainable fashion 
marketing and activism_

Authors: Sarah Portway
Page Start: 49

This article asks the question: Why is sustainable fashion not ‘sexy’ 
for mainstream customers? Marketing departments are curators of desire, 
and trending social media hashtags tell us that making a political 
statement holds more selfie-potential than ever. Trend forecasting and 
market analyses point to growing trends in sustainable food, cars, 
personal care and home products. This article starts with the premise 
that fashion has been uncharacteristically slow to adopt this 
save-the-world Zeitgeist. Using a climate justice vision of 
sustainability that considers both social and environmental impacts, 
this critical review of literature and historical events explores the 
role of marketing and activism in popularizing sustainable fashion among 
mainstream consumers. After a brief overview of sustainable fashion, 
this article lists successful mobilization strategies identified in 
academic literature across several disciplines. These strategies are 
then compared with contemporary sustainable fashion activist techniques 
through an analysis of recent mobilization efforts. Sustainable fashion 
marketing campaigns are also critiqued through comparison with existing 
trend-diffusion models. With a few colloquial flourishes along the way, 
examples from popular media are highlighted to argue that marketing 
teams and activist groups have deviated from their usual tactics on this 
issue, while they ought to employ tools that they have sharpened over 
time to foster a mainstream market for sustainable fashion. This article 
finishes with a hopeful call to action for these groups.

_Post-partum celebrity images: Influence on self-thoughts and appearance 
management behaviours of post-partum women
_
Authors: Alyssa Dana Adomaitis And Kim K. P. Johnson
Page Start: 69

Within previous decades, opinions about pregnancy and post-partum 
behaviour featured in various news articles and within popular 
literature emphasized issues related to pregnancy and liquor; campaigns 
against teen pregnancy; pregnancy and weight gain; and pregnancy and 
dieting behaviour. Attention has shifted from these issues to 
appearance-related topics including rapid weight loss, exercise 
regiments and food restriction. For example, photographs of celebrities 
have provided visual evidence that women can gain weight during 
pregnancy, give birth and within weeks revert to a thin, pre-pregnant 
body size. A qualitative method was used to explore to what extent, if 
any, images of post-partum celebrity bodies influenced self-thoughts of 
non-celebrity post-partum mothers and their appearance management. A 
total of 35 women completed in-depth interviews. Viewing post-partum 
celebrity images stirred up emotions of jealousy, anxiety and 
frustration, often followed by statements of envy or justification. Most 
participants reported engaging in upward social comparison with images. 
However, most participants did not behave differently relative to their 
appearance management (i.e., dieting, exercise or dressing).

_Attention deficit fashion_

Authors: Andrew Reilly And  Jana Hawley
Page Start: 85

Using a post-postmodern perspective, we offer a framework for analysing 
the current social and industrial practices that have resulted in the 
rapid turnover of clothing purchases and styles. ‘Attention deficit 
fashion’ (ADF) is the result of a youth-driven marketplace that relies 
on consumers who regularly use technology to share images of themselves 
in clothing. Wearing the same clothing item in another image is a social 
faux pas so the item is discarded and new items are sought. The result 
is what we call ‘micro-trends’, or subtle changes in aesthetic 
preferences that are limited by geography or demographics.

_Comparison of patterns of dressing for two generations within a local 
context_

Authors: Marilyn R. DeLong And Haeun Bang And Laureen Gibson
Page Start: 99

This research explores the dressing patterns of two generations of women 
with similar educational levels, and both located in the upper Midwest, 
USA. Based upon a review of the theories about dressing, the expectation 
was that differences in patterns of dressing would arise between the two 
groups that differed in age and generational cohort group. This is 
significant in today’s milieu in which sustainable best practices from 
fast to slow fashion are encouraged and differences in generational 
groups could change the approach to intervention. The total sample of 
115 females included two groups, the first numbered 55 with an average 
age of 73 years and the second numbered 60 with an average age of 20 
years. Participants responded to a survey focused on the contemporary 
American woman. The two groups were asked the same questions about how 
they desired to appear, how they strategized about their wardrobe and 
putting together of ensembles, and their shopping patterns. Analysis 
included a comparison of responses of each group. There were a few 
differences in patterns of dressing based upon age and generational 
cohort group, but the number of similarities pointed to other influences 
such as the similar location of the two groups.

_Eco printing and dyeing-echoes of the 1960s_

Authors: Christina Lindholm
Page Start: 119

Short commentary on the current trend of using botanical materials to 
dye and print. Directions for eco printing a silk scarf are included.

_Book Reviews_

Authors: Deidra W. Arrington And Maria Mackinney-Valentin And Takiyah Fields
Page Start: 123

  * Costume in Performance: Materiality, Culture, and the Body,
    Donatella Barbieri (2017)
  * Fashion and War in Popular Culture, Denise N. Rall (ed.) (2014)
  * #SkintoSoulBeauty Unleashed: The Power of True Beauty, Grace and
    Purpose from Skin to Soul, Neva K. Read (2017)

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