[Commlist] Screen Makeup: Style, Convention, Colour and Concealment - CFP

*Screen Makeup: Style, Convention, Colour and Concealment*

We are seeking chapter proposals for a collection on Screen Makeup to be 
published by Edinburgh University Press as part of the /Film and 
Fashion/ series edited by Pamela Church Gibson. The collection editors 
are Lucy Bolton and Cathy Lomax.

Makeup is a vital technical material in the construction of the 
on-screen image. Beyond this, makeup is an alluring, colour-rich medium 
of transformation, beautification, and concealment, and because of this 
is sometimes regarded with suspicion. Makeup has notably and 
controversially been used to camouflage, enhance, and alter the colour 
and tone of skin on-screen, in instances of brownface and blackface, but 
also makeup’s connections with masquerade and theatricality evoke 
frivolity, playfulness and artifice.

                 James Naremore notes that although film studios have 
always maintained huge makeup departments many actors disingenuously 
express a preference for appearing ‘natural’ on screen. This 
embarrassment about the wearing of makeup means that other than in the 
form of special effects, makeup has arguably been ‘the most truly 
invisible of movie crafts’ (1988: 95-6).

Despite this, makeup is a visible and important component of the star 
image. In the early 20^th century moral consternation about the 
provocative implications of wearing makeup was overridden by the mass 
popularity of screen stars and their strikingly made-up faces. These 
star makeup looks created a demand for products that led to the creation 
of still-familiar brands such as Max Factor, with stars often recruited 
to endorse makeup lines and demonstrate new makeup fashions and products. //

Re-colouring skin, as in the once common practice of blackface, may now 
be taboo, but the legacy of discrimination against Black actors in the 
west is still felt as some makeup artists and brands have not developed 
the expertise or product lines to adequately make-up non-white skins. In 
addition, knowledge around makeup practices in global film industries 
has been overshadowed by a largely singular focus on Hollywood and 
European cinema/stars.

Our aim for this collection is to provide a wide ranging and 
interdisciplinary look at film and makeup. We hope to attract 
contributions from diverse regions, disciplines, backgrounds and career 
stages, reflecting global epistemologies, and are keen to engage with 
new materials and methodologies, in innovative ways.

Specific topics for proposals might include, but are not limited to:

- The role makeup plays in forming and consolidating particular star images

- Examinations of the work of particular makeup artists

- The makeup styles of different film studios in international contexts

- Analysis of the makeup of individual stars from different eras and 
global cinemas

- Analysis of makeup in particular films

- Makeup, skin colour and race

- Colourism and consumer capitalism

- Pleasure and playfulness

- Stereotypes and sexuality

- Global perspectives on beauty and performance for the screen

- Star makeup versus historical accuracy

- The continuing influence of classical star makeups

- National makeup styles

- The no-makeup movement

- Makeup, stars, and ageing in global contexts

- Makeup for colour and/or black and white films and images

- The influence of changing fashions on star makeups

- Perceptions of beauty across time

- The role of makeup and beauty in screen performance

- Theoretical approaches to makeup and the star image

- Imitation of star looks in a variety of contexts, such as online, in 
personal life, as a career

- The dissemination of professional makeup products on the high street

- Stars and makeup advertising campaigns, contemporary and historical

- Makeup and fan magazines

- The star makeup tutorial

Proposals of 250-words for chapters should be sent with a 100-word 
biographical note to Lucy Bolton and Cathy Lomax at 
(screenstarmakeup /at/ gmail.com) <mailto:(screenstarmakeup /at/ gmail.com)>__

__

*_Deadline – 31 December 2024_*

**

*Lucy Bolton (l.c.bolton /at/ qmul.ac.uk) <mailto:(l.c.bolton /at/ qmul.ac.uk)>*

*Cathy Lomax (lomaxcathy /at/ mac.com) <mailto:(lomaxcathy /at/ mac.com)>*

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