[Commlist] Call for Papers: Critical Studies in Men's Fashion (Special Issue: 'Men's Fashion in the Age of AIDS')

Special Issue of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion

‘Men’s Fashion in the Age of AIDS’


Editors: Jonathan Kaplan and Peter McNeil


Abstracts due for review: 30 July 2022

Authors notified of decisions: 30 August 2022

Completed articles due: 30 September 2022


Full call available here:

https://www.intellectbooks.com/asset/65802/1/CFP_CSMF_Men_s_Fashion_in_the_Age_of_AIDS_1_.pdf 
<https://www.intellectbooks.com/asset/65802/1/CFP_CSMF_Men_s_Fashion_in_the_Age_of_AIDS_1_.pdf>


Critical Studies in Men’s Fashionunder its incoming editors Dr Jonathan 
Kaplan (Sydney Jewish Museum and UTS) and Distinguished Professor Peter 
McNeil (UTS) place a call for papers for a Special Issue ‘Men’s Fashion 
in the Age of AIDS’.


As the world reels from the coronavirus, we remember AIDS (Acquired 
Immunodeficiency Syndrome), a virus first ‘identified’ in 1981 (but 
likely existing much longer) which has killed 36.3 million people 
worldwide and affects another 37 million Living With AIDS. AIDS has 
affected women, men, trans and non-binary populations but was 
particularly devastating for men who had sex with men as well as POC, 
sex workers, IV drug users and other vulnerable populations. AIDs 
continues to affect many parts of the world, has affected the 
consciousness of close to two generations, and galvanised a range of 
human rights movements including gay, queer, intersex and trans rights. 
Much of this has a fashion dimension.


Building upon much of the work of outgoing editor Andrew Reilly and 
their guest editors, this special issue of CSMF welcomes any interlinked 
historical and theoretical approaches to the study of men’s fashion in 
the age of AIDS. Global approaches to men’s fashion in the age of AIDS 
are most welcome, keeping in mind much of Europe in the 1980s was behind 
the ‘iron curtain’, AIDS was a major cause of death in many African 
countries, and the AIDSpandemic is not yet ‘under control’.


Case studies and micro-histories linking dress and identities are most 
welcome, as well as creative, reflective-practice and non-traditional 
research submissions.


We welcome all relevant papers that embrace any aspect of men’s fashion 
as dressed and bodily experience. For example, as Sarah Schulman argues 
in her Let the Record Show: A Political History of ACT UP New York, 
1987–1993 (2021) the protest movement ACT UP’s membership included 
skilled figures from advertising and design who created unified and 
striking T shirts, posters and banners. The effect of their design was 
to create optimum impact for ACT UP’s protests in the news media but had 
the important secondary impact of creating ‘a new aesthetic as a mode of 
identification’ (Schulman).


Fashion is not just a material product. It also forms aesthetic 
knowledge and experience that is often transmitted by inter-generational 
practices. We therefore welcome relevant papers that fall outside the 
chronology of the 1980s–present day.


Topics may include, but are not limited to:

• Fashion designers and fashion creators: a lost generation

• Questioning notions of fashion, gender and sexuality

• Reaganomics, Thatcherism, and the AIDS crisis

• Reactive fashion: realignment of the fashion and luxury industries in 
the age of AIDS

• Fashion and intersectional homophobia, sexism, and racism

• Fashion and performance/performativity

• Fashion and protest

• Fashion and activism

• Fashion and androgyny

• ACT UP: design strategies, protest and everyday dress

• Fashion and the ‘politics of respectability’ (David Halperin)

• Fashion and anxiety

• Transgender transformations or revisions in male fashion

• Fashion and camp

• Fashion and escapism in the age of AIDS

• The role of women in men’s fashion in the age of AIDS

• Femininity and male fashion

• Non-gay participants in gay-male fashion culture

• Fashion and obligatory heterosexuality

• Fashion and inter-generational practices

• Fashion and urban life

• Fashion and ‘masculinocentric’ culture

• The cult of the body in the age of AIDS

• Post-Stonewall fashion

• Fashion and sex work

• Fashion and postmodernism: eclecticism, pastiche and parody

• Fashion and new media - MTV, cable television news, and the invention 
of fashion TV journalism

• Fashion decadence/innocence of the pre- and post- AIDSs era.

• Fashion and Andy Warhol in the 80s

• Fashion and clubland: New Romanticism to circuit parties

• Fashion and dance party culture


Please e-mail a Word or PDF abstract of 150–200 words to the editors, 
Jonathan Kaplan ((jkpalan /at/ sjm.com.au) <mailto:(jkpalan /at/ sjm.com.au)>) and 
Peter McNeil ((peter.mcneil /at/ uts.edu.au) <mailto:(peter.mcneil /at/ uts.edu.au)>) 
by 30 July 2022.


Abstracts’ submissions should include a title, keywords, approximate 
word count including references, author’s full name, affiliation, 
contact details and a short biography of 3–5 sentences. The editor will 
aim to let prospective authors know their final decision as soon as 
possible.


Full manuscripts’ deadline is 30 September 2022.


All submissions must follow Intellect’s house style:

www.intellectbooks.com/asset/728/house- 
<http://www.intellectbooks.com/asset/728/house-> style-guide-4th-ed-2020.pdf


Manuscripts should be a maximum of 7000 words. It is the author’s 
responsibility to clear the usage rights for all images to be published.

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