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[ecrea] Fashion, Style & Popular Culture 6.1 published
Fri Nov 16 16:29:33 GMT 2018
Intellect is excited to announce that Fashion, Style & Popular Culture
6.1 is now available! For more information about the issue, click here
>> https://bit.ly/2PZa6U0
*_Contents_*
_Fashion, style and global culture with sneakers uniting us_
Authors: Joseph H. Hancock
Page Start: 3
_Orientalist reveries: The imaginary creative constructions of the
Moroccan space and place by the figures of the non-Muslim male traveller
and female tourist − from travel literature to photography and
contemporary fashion imagery_
Authors: Itai Doron
Page Start: 7
In this body of research and original photographic work to which it
responds, I examine the position and connotation of Morocco as a site
for artistic inspiration in travel literature, photography and fashion
photography in the context of three main themes relating to its
imaginary constructions: Orientalism; the western male traveller in
contradistinction to the female tourist; and the figure of the cultured
flâneur. These themes became associated with European industrialization
and imperialism towards the end of the nineteenth century, and the
research draws links between this particular period of culture and its
values, and our present day, romantic fascination with Morocco, and the
revival of such themes and their popular reincarnation in contemporary
fashion editorials. The article investigates the role that photography
has played in the development of twenty-first century Orientalism and
its manifestation in visual fashion storytelling, and the interplay
between artist-subject-location: how does the western
traveller/photographer view both himself and others in the process of
picturing the Maghreb and what are the kinds of relationships and
tensions that develop between the traveller/photographer and the North
African sites that he observes? The research focuses on the long
association between travel and sexual adventure and explores the
literary and visual narratives involving the figures of the contemporary
traveller and tourist in the North African space and place, and how
adventurer and location feed off one another. By examining the
appropriation of such figures and motifs from art and literature into
contemporary photography of travel and fashion photography, the article
aims to consider the visual representation and specific propositions of
locations such as Tangier, Marrakesh, Assilah and the Moroccan Sahara as
chaotic, dangerous and alien, and understand the complex,
post-Orientalist rendition of the North African space and visual culture
within the context of fashion photography. More specifically this
article poses the following questions: why does our western culture want
or need to revisit condescending Orientalist fantasies and an
imperialist mode of representation? And in what way are the tropes of
Orientalist representation tied to the fantasies, desires and anxieties
that the fashion industry and its consumer engage with? The article
takes Morocco’s strong ties with western cultural figures as its
starting point, and in times of intense political and social unrest in
the Arab world – the continuing fascination with and promotion of this
Muslim country as a sensual tourist destination by fashion editorial and
ad campaign shoots. The article considers two photography monographs by
western male travellers/photographers shooting photographic bodies of
work in a foreign Islamic country: Paul Bowles’ How Could I Send a
Picture into the Desert (Bowles and Bischoff 1994) and Harry Gruyaert’s
Morocco (1990), in addition to several case studies from literature
(Peter Mayne, Elias Canetti); photography (Irving Penn, Daido Moriyama);
and contemporary fashion editorial work (William Klein, Jack Pierson,
Azim Haidaryan, Inez Van Lamsweerde/Vinoodh Matadin, Mario Testino, Hans
Feurer, Steven Meisel and Daniel Riera). It aims to establish links
between the visual representation of travel and the context of gender,
fashion, identity and sexuality and the psychological dimension of tourism.
_An analysis of the shoulder pad in female fashion_
Authors: Kevin Almond
Page Start: 31
This study examines the adoption of the shoulder pad in female, western
fashion. Shoulder pads are essentially a form of wadding inserted into a
garment that alters the natural shape of the shoulder line. They can
give the illusion of a much broader shoulder, a square shoulder or a
rounded, softer shoulder. In bespoke or made-to-measure fashion such as
tailoring and haute couture, the use of shoulder padding can also align
the shoulders if one slopes more than the other. The fashion industry
has utilized shoulder pads to enhance the silhouette of many types of
clothes and this research aims to trace the history of shoulder padding
in contemporary fashion, from the early 1930s. It also discusses how
technology has developed the use of shoulder padding in female fashion.
Their inclusion in fashionable clothing depends on the fashion taste of
the day; however, the research also investigates how shoulder pads have
sometimes been appropriated by women to galvanize an impression of power
and emancipation.
_
Climate justice isn’t sexy: The double failure of sustainable fashion
marketing and activism_
Authors: Sarah Portway
Page Start: 49
This article asks the question: Why is sustainable fashion not ‘sexy’
for mainstream customers? Marketing departments are curators of desire,
and trending social media hashtags tell us that making a political
statement holds more selfie-potential than ever. Trend forecasting and
market analyses point to growing trends in sustainable food, cars,
personal care and home products. This article starts with the premise
that fashion has been uncharacteristically slow to adopt this
save-the-world Zeitgeist. Using a climate justice vision of
sustainability that considers both social and environmental impacts,
this critical review of literature and historical events explores the
role of marketing and activism in popularizing sustainable fashion among
mainstream consumers. After a brief overview of sustainable fashion,
this article lists successful mobilization strategies identified in
academic literature across several disciplines. These strategies are
then compared with contemporary sustainable fashion activist techniques
through an analysis of recent mobilization efforts. Sustainable fashion
marketing campaigns are also critiqued through comparison with existing
trend-diffusion models. With a few colloquial flourishes along the way,
examples from popular media are highlighted to argue that marketing
teams and activist groups have deviated from their usual tactics on this
issue, while they ought to employ tools that they have sharpened over
time to foster a mainstream market for sustainable fashion. This article
finishes with a hopeful call to action for these groups.
_Post-partum celebrity images: Influence on self-thoughts and appearance
management behaviours of post-partum women
_
Authors: Alyssa Dana Adomaitis And Kim K. P. Johnson
Page Start: 69
Within previous decades, opinions about pregnancy and post-partum
behaviour featured in various news articles and within popular
literature emphasized issues related to pregnancy and liquor; campaigns
against teen pregnancy; pregnancy and weight gain; and pregnancy and
dieting behaviour. Attention has shifted from these issues to
appearance-related topics including rapid weight loss, exercise
regiments and food restriction. For example, photographs of celebrities
have provided visual evidence that women can gain weight during
pregnancy, give birth and within weeks revert to a thin, pre-pregnant
body size. A qualitative method was used to explore to what extent, if
any, images of post-partum celebrity bodies influenced self-thoughts of
non-celebrity post-partum mothers and their appearance management. A
total of 35 women completed in-depth interviews. Viewing post-partum
celebrity images stirred up emotions of jealousy, anxiety and
frustration, often followed by statements of envy or justification. Most
participants reported engaging in upward social comparison with images.
However, most participants did not behave differently relative to their
appearance management (i.e., dieting, exercise or dressing).
_Attention deficit fashion_
Authors: Andrew Reilly And Jana Hawley
Page Start: 85
Using a post-postmodern perspective, we offer a framework for analysing
the current social and industrial practices that have resulted in the
rapid turnover of clothing purchases and styles. ‘Attention deficit
fashion’ (ADF) is the result of a youth-driven marketplace that relies
on consumers who regularly use technology to share images of themselves
in clothing. Wearing the same clothing item in another image is a social
faux pas so the item is discarded and new items are sought. The result
is what we call ‘micro-trends’, or subtle changes in aesthetic
preferences that are limited by geography or demographics.
_Comparison of patterns of dressing for two generations within a local
context_
Authors: Marilyn R. DeLong And Haeun Bang And Laureen Gibson
Page Start: 99
This research explores the dressing patterns of two generations of women
with similar educational levels, and both located in the upper Midwest,
USA. Based upon a review of the theories about dressing, the expectation
was that differences in patterns of dressing would arise between the two
groups that differed in age and generational cohort group. This is
significant in today’s milieu in which sustainable best practices from
fast to slow fashion are encouraged and differences in generational
groups could change the approach to intervention. The total sample of
115 females included two groups, the first numbered 55 with an average
age of 73 years and the second numbered 60 with an average age of 20
years. Participants responded to a survey focused on the contemporary
American woman. The two groups were asked the same questions about how
they desired to appear, how they strategized about their wardrobe and
putting together of ensembles, and their shopping patterns. Analysis
included a comparison of responses of each group. There were a few
differences in patterns of dressing based upon age and generational
cohort group, but the number of similarities pointed to other influences
such as the similar location of the two groups.
_Eco printing and dyeing-echoes of the 1960s_
Authors: Christina Lindholm
Page Start: 119
Short commentary on the current trend of using botanical materials to
dye and print. Directions for eco printing a silk scarf are included.
_Book Reviews_
Authors: Deidra W. Arrington And Maria Mackinney-Valentin And Takiyah Fields
Page Start: 123
* Costume in Performance: Materiality, Culture, and the Body,
Donatella Barbieri (2017)
* Fashion and War in Popular Culture, Denise N. Rall (ed.) (2014)
* #SkintoSoulBeauty Unleashed: The Power of True Beauty, Grace and
Purpose from Skin to Soul, Neva K. Read (2017)
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