Archive for 2026

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[Commlist] new book: Public Discourse and the Fashion Industry

Mon Mar 16 20:38:22 GMT 2026




New Publication: Public Discourse and the Fashion Industry

This book investigates the transformation of fashion discourse as it moves from specialised fashion journalism to the general public media. Analysis of more than 2,000 media texts over 13 years shows systematic patterns relevant to scholars of fashion, organisational communication, discourse analysis, and media representation.

The study applies Lotman's semiosphere theory to fashion studies for the first time, alongside Foucault's theory of power relations and Barthes's semiology. It introduces Critical Discursive Matrix Analysis (CDMA), a methodological framework for examining how industry discourse operates across diverse media contexts.

Key findings include the "ventriloquist effect," in which industries appear to communicate in public media through external voices such as NGOs and activists; systematic transformation of discourse from desire-creation to problem-management; and patterns of "discursive exhaustion" that elucidate why awareness campaigns frequently fail to change behaviour.

The research demonstrates that peripheral discursive spaces become sites where industry narratives are shaped by non-industry actors, providing insights into contemporary corporate-society relations and organisational communication strategies.

Author: Natalia Berger, Inholland University of Applied Sciences Publisher: Taylor & Francis, 2026 ISBN 9781032829487 Available: https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/mono/10.4324/9781003507086/public-discourse-fashion-industry-natalia-berger <https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/mono/10.4324/9781003507086/public-discourse-fashion-industry-natalia-berger>
Contact: (natalia.berger /at/ inholland.nl) <mailto:(natalia.berger /at/ inholland.nl)>

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