[Commlist] Proposals for chapters for an edited collection on Screen Makeup

Reminder that the deadline for chapter proposals for the edited 
collection Screen Makeup: Style, Convention, Colour and Concealment is 
31 December 2024...
  We are seeking chapter proposals for a collection on Screen Makeup to 
be published by Edinburgh University Press as part of the Film and 
Fashion series edited by Pamela Church Gibson. The collection editors 
are Lucy Bolton and Cathy Lomax.
 Makeup is a vital technical material in the construction of the 
on-screen image. Beyond this, makeup is an alluring, colour-rich medium 
of transformation, beautification, and concealment, and because of this 
is sometimes regarded with suspicion. Makeup has notably and 
controversially been used to camouflage, enhance, and alter the colour 
and tone of skin on-screen, in instances of brownface and blackface, but 
also makeup’s connections with masquerade and theatricality evoke 
frivolity, playfulness and artifice.

James Naremore notes that although film studios have always maintained 
huge makeup departments many actors disingenuously express a preference 
for appearing ‘natural’ on screen. This embarrassment about the wearing 
of makeup means that other than in the form of special effects, makeup 
has arguably been ‘the most truly invisible of movie crafts’ (1988: 
95-6). Despite this, makeup is a visible and important component of the 
star image. In the early 20th century moral consternation about the 
provocative implications of wearing makeup was overridden by the mass 
popularity of screen stars and their strikingly made-up faces. These 
star makeup looks created a demand for products that led to the creation 
of still-familiar brands such as Max Factor, with stars often recruited 
to endorse makeup lines and demonstrate new makeup fashions and 
products. Re-colouring skin, as in the once common practice of 
blackface, may now be taboo, but the legacy of discrimination against 
Black actors in the west is still felt as some makeup artists and brands 
have not developed the expertise or product lines to adequately make-up 
non-white skins. In addition, knowledge around makeup practices in 
global film industries has been overshadowed by a largely singular focus 
on Hollywood and European cinema/stars.
 Our aim for this collection is to provide a wide ranging and 
interdisciplinary look at film and makeup. We hope to attract 
contributions from diverse regions, disciplines, backgrounds and career 
stages, reflecting global epistemologies, and are keen to engage with 
new materials and methodologies, in innovative ways.
 Specific topics for proposals might include, but are not limited to:
 - The role makeup plays in forming and consolidating particular star 
images
- Examinations of the work of particular makeup artists
- The makeup styles of different film studios in international contexts
- Analysis of the makeup of individual stars from different eras and 
global cinemas
- Analysis of makeup in particular films
- Makeup, skin colour and race
- Colourism and consumer capitalism
- Pleasure and playfulness
- Stereotypes and sexuality
- Global perspectives on beauty and performance for the screen
- Star makeup versus historical accuracy
- The continuing influence of classical star makeups
- National makeup styles
- The no-makeup movement
- Makeup, stars, and ageing in global contexts
- Makeup for colour and/or black and white films and images
- The influence of changing fashions on star makeups
- Perceptions of beauty across time
- The role of makeup and beauty in screen performance
- Theoretical approaches to makeup and the star image
- Imitation of star looks in a variety of contexts, such as online, in 
personal life, as a career
- The dissemination of professional makeup products on the high street
- Stars and makeup advertising campaigns, contemporary and historical
- Makeup and fan magazines
- The star makeup tutorial
  Proposals of 250-words for chapters should be sent with a 100-word 
biographical note to Lucy Bolton and Cathy Lomax at 
(screenstarmakeup /at/ gmail.com)

Deadline – 31 December 2024.
Replies to proposals will be made by end of January 2025.
Chapters to be delivered by January 2026.


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