[ecrea] Critical Studies in Men's Fashion 4.2

We are delighted to announce that the new issue of Critical Studies in 
Men’s Fashion (4.2) is now available.


This special issue of /CSMF/ focusses on ‘Fashion as Art’.


For more information about this issue, please click here 
<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-issue,id=3354/> or email 
(katy /at/ intellectbooks.com) <mailto:(katy /at/ intellectbooks.com)>.


Articles within this issue include (partial list):


’Till They See a Man in Spite of His Clothes’: Twentieth Century Media 
and Raymond Duncan 
<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24307/>

Authors: Megan Martinelli Campbell

Page Start: 113


Raymond Duncan (1874–1966) entered the twentieth century clothed in a 
Greek inspired dress influenced by the past, yet strikingly modern for 
his time. Duncan, a leader at his own self-sufficient art colonies in 
Paris and Nice, spent 62 years of his life dressed in the daily uniform 
of hand-woven tunics and leather sandals that he and his followers 
created for themselves. Duncan first adopted his social and 
gender-defying philhellenic costume in 1903, and coverage of Duncan and 
his companions’ dress in newspapers and other media outlets continued 
throughout his lifetime. This article explores Duncan’s defiance of 
social conventions via his clothing, and the evolving attitudes of the 
twentieth-century mindset, from scandalised shock at Duncan’s 
trouser-less appearance during the 1910s to bemused curiosity from the 
1920s onwards. As a male artist travelling through cultural centres such 
as Paris, London, Berlin and New York during the twentieth century, the 
attention afforded by the western press to Duncan’s ‘draperies’, long 
hair and sandalled feet contributed to the artist’s notoriety and 
success, and revealed a gradually evolving social interpretation of 
bohemian dress, which, by the time of Duncan’s death in the late 1960s, 
approached understanding and acceptance.


Identity and imaginary: Rhetorics of menswear in literature and film 
<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24309/>

Authors: Kenneth M. Kambara and John Deming

Page Start: 153


We critically examine the use of menswear in literature and film as an 
expression of Weltanschauung, a view of the world by creatives in the 
literary and visual arts. While depictions and presentations of menswear 
serve as rhetorical devices in literature and film, this occurs within a 
sociocultural meaning system, where the creator not only captures 
elements of social realities but also serves to influence them. Our 
enquiry informs how taste is defined through the distinctions made in 
social processes involving cultural capital through creative production. 
This involves context-rich analyses of how menswear is used to craft 
identities and tropes embedded within a historicized imaginary that may 
have never even existed. Such an examination of menswear as an art form 
in media allows for a nuanced critical analysis of gender performativity 
and issues of trajectories of meanings over time. Our theoretical 
framework builds on the fashion system and cultural reproduction work of 
Roland Barthes and Pierre Bourdieu, respectively. We use several key 
case studies of twentieth-century authors and film projects to develop 
new theory that has implications for understanding menswear as an art 
form with societal significance, with implications for better 
understanding gender, identity, culture and the everyday praxis of 
individuals and institutions.


Gender fluidity in Men’s fashion: From Shakespeare’s modern English to 
the new millennium 
<https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/view-Article,id=24310/>

Authors: Patti Jordan

Page Start: 171


This study explores how art, performance and the fluid construction of 
gender identities have significantly influenced men’s fashion over the 
trajectories of both time and place. Comparisons are made to the 
similarities and differences between everyday dress, and dress for 
performance. Studies of particular epochs indicate noteworthy changes in 
men’s fashion, such as sixteenth-century dress and costume in 
Shakespearean England, the nineteenth-century Aesthetic Movement, 
twentieth century counterculture and the new millennium. Emphasis is 
placed on the transformative development of New English, and how this 
linguistic trend, as well as the increase in world travel, may have 
augmented changes in men’s dress. Western fascination with eastern 
influences and emerging concepts of exotic dress during the 
nineteenth-century Aesthetic Movement to the present are noted. Other 
pivotal moments, such as the development of twentieth-century fashion 
subcultures, mirror specific contemporary shifts in men’s attitudes 
towards the construction of gender identity and fashion influence. 
Cross-analysis is introduced through visual and verbal linkages as well 
as diverse art genres so as to further examine men’s styling at decisive 
points in fashion history.

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