Archive for July 2020

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[Commlist] Crossing Gender Boundaries: Fashion to Create, Disrupt and Transcend is now available Open Access

Sat Jul 04 08:31:46 GMT 2020






Intellect is proud to announce that Crossing Gender Boundaries: Fashion to Create, Disrupt and Transcendby Andrew Reilly and Ben Barry is now available Open Access thanks to funding from Knowledge Unlatched!


Crossing Boundaries (HB)_front cover x (3).jpg

This volume presents a collection of the most recent knowledge on the relationship between gender and fashion in historical and contemporary contexts. Through fourteen essays divided into three segments – how dress creates, disrupts and transcends gender – the chapters investigate gender issues through the lens of fashion. Crossing Gender Boundaries first examines how clothing has been, and continues to be, used to create and maintain the binary gender division that has come to permeate Western and westernized cultures. Next, it explores how dress can be used to contest and subvert binary gender expectations, before a final section that considers the meaning of gender and how dress can transcend it, focusing on unisex and genderless clothing.


The essays consider how fashion can both constrict and free gender expression, explore the ways dress and gender are products of one other and illuminate the construction of gender through social norms. Readers will find that through analysis of the relationship between gender and fashion, they gain a better understanding of the world around them.


*Introduction*

_
_

_Section One: Creating Gender_


 1.

    ‘Bifurcated Garments and Divided Skirts:  Redrawing the Boundaries
    of the Sartorial Feminine in Late Victorian Culture’ – Kimberly Wahl

 2.

      ‘“Hard and Straight”:  The Creation of Nineteenth Century
    Masculine Subjectivity through Corsetry’ – Alanna McKnight

 3.

      ‘Mirror Epiphany:  Transpersons’ Use of Dress to Create and
    Sustain Their Affirmed Gender Identities’ – Jory M. Catalpa and
    Jenifer K. McGuire

 4.

      ‘Withering Heights:  High Heels and Hegemonic Masculinity’ –
    Elizabeth Semmelhack


_Section Two: Disrupting Gender_


 5.

    ‘Cute Men in Contemporary Japan’ – Toby Slade

 6.

    ‘The Politicisation of Fashion in Virtual Queer Spaces: A Case Study
    of Saint Harridan one of the Pioneering Queer Fashion Brands in the
    Twenty-First Century’ – Kelly Reddy-Best

 7.

    ‘She Was Not A Girly Girl: Athletic Apparel, Female Masculinity, and
    the Endorsement of Difference’ – Christina Bush

 8.

    ‘Gender More: An Intersectional Perspective on Men's Transgression
    of the Gender Dress Binary’ – Ben Barry and Andrew Reilly

 9.

    ‘In-vest-ed Meaning:  Gender Ambiguity in Costume Collections’ –
    Katie Baker Jones and Jean L. Parsons


_Section Three: Transcending Gender_


10.

    ‘The Politics of the Neutral: Rad Hourani’s Unisex Vision’ – Rebecca
    Halliday

11.

    ‘Shirting Identities: Negotiating Gender Identity through the Dress
    Shirt’ – Valerie Rangel

12.

    ‘Why Don’t I Wear Skirts?  Understanding Dress Behaviour through
    Historical Contexts’ – Jung Ha-Brookshire

13.

    ‘Critical Mascara: On Fabulousness, Creativity and the End of
    Gender’ – madison moore

14.

    ‘Clothes (Un)make the (Wo)man – Un-gendering Fashion (2015?)’ –
    Hazel Clark and Leena-Maija Rossi


You can view the PDF here >> https://openresearchlibrary.org/viewer/54fa0011-60f9-46b4-b21f-14e03aae2a21/1/single

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